Living on One Acre or Less

  To the memory of my grandfather, George Wilkes, who let me have my own small plot in the garden and sowed the seed of my love of plants.

  CONTENTS

  Introduction

  PART ONE: Design & groundwork

  1. Planning your plot

  2. Soil matters

  3. Soil fertility & crop rotations

  PART TWO: Growing produce

  4. The vegetable & flower garden

  5. An abundance of fruit

  6. Tree crops & forest gardens

  PART THREE: Keeping livestock

  7. Poultry for eggs & meat

  8. Pigs for meat

  9. Including sheep or goats

  10. Aquaponics

  11. Beekeeping

  Appendix: Livestock regulations & good practice

  Resources

  Index

  A small but productive permaculture garden in Hong Kong.

  INTRODUCTION

  Many people dream of stepping away from the rat race and living on a plot of land where they can be self-sufficient: growing all their own fruit and vegetables, keeping chickens for eggs, and perhaps raising a few pigs or sheep. But with the soaring cost of land and the difficulty of finding the right plot, the reality is that many will probably have to make do with a large garden or a corner of a field. The good news is that it is perfectly possible to grow all the fruit and vegetables needed by a family, raise animals for meat, fish and eggs, keep bees and even produce fuelwood on a small plot of land of just one acre or less.

  Much of the developing world relies on the productivity of small farms. There are more than 500 million smallholder farms around the world, and more than 2 billion people rely on them for their livelihoods. Between them, these small farms produce four-fifths of all the food eaten in Asia and sub-Saharan Africa. More than 50 years ago, the Nobel-Prize-winning economist Amartya Sen showed that there was an inverse relationship between the size of a farm and the amount of crops it could produce per hectare: the smaller the farm, the greater the productivity. A recent study compared farm size and yield across seven regions in Turkey, finding the smaller farms to be many times more productive than larger farms, and this seems to be true everywhere, even in the UK and USA.

  There are plenty of reasons to explain this fact. While some have suggested that small-scale farmers are able to make use of free family labour to cultivate more intensively, in fact there is little doubt that the productivity actually comes from biodiverse systems with an abundance of wildlife, the use of polycultures (growing different crops together) and a fertile soil. Most use organic methods, which can be as productive as conventional methods, especially on a small scale. For example, long-term experiments at the Rodale Institute in the USA have found that yields of organically grown crops match conventionally grown yields in an average year, and can even outperform them in drought years. Organic methods build up fertility in the soil, use less energy and are far more sustainable.

  Many small-scale farmers are self-reliant, growing everything they need, from food and fibres to fuel and medicines. I say ‘self-reliant’ deliberately, since it is not quite the same thing as self-sufficient, as I am frequently reminded by permaculturalist friends! It is virtually impossible to be truly self-sufficient, but being self-reliant means that you have goods that you can trade for the items that you cannot produce.

  Another word that crops up a lot in this context is ‘resilience’ – the ability to recover from difficult conditions; to be adaptable and flexible. Smallscale farming is far more resilient than large-scale commercial farming. Small-scale farmers tend to grow a diverse range of crops rather than specialize in one or two, and can therefore adapt to suit changing conditions and recover quickly from adverse conditions. In a world that is exper iencing climate change, resilience is going to be very important.

  The small plots on these terraced slopes in Madeira are intensively worked to provide families with all the vegetables they need.

  I never fail to be impressed by the productivity of smallholders and gardeners around the world, having seen some amazing examples – from terraced slopes in Madeira and Hong Kong to tiny plots in Kenya; from vegetable gardens in Australia and North America to allotments in the UK. There is something to be learned from all of them. This book is a compilation of all the nuggets of information that I have gleaned on my journey, from my early days of growing vegetables with my grandparents as a child, then studying botany at university, carrying out research into habitat restoration and, more recently, my experiences of keeping livestock and running a smallholding. I don’t think farmers and growers ever stop learning. Today, I use ideas from permaculture and organic horticulture, and I love trying new ways based on experimental work that I have seen at research stations and from my travels worldwide.

  In this book I hope to show you just how much can be produced in a small area, using traditional techniques rather than ‘quick fix’ chemical approaches. My advice to people taking on land for the first time is always to take it slowly. Too many people rush off and buy lots of different animals, create a huge vegetable-growing area, and then find that it becomes a chore rather than a pleasure, which often leads to them giving up. Hopefully, the advice in this book will help you to avoid this. Some of the information you will need to put together your plans is to be found in Parts Two and Three, so my best advice is to read everything before starting!

  Highly productive and organically managed terraces at the Kadoorie Farm in Hong Kong.

  How to use this book

  This book is divided into three parts. Part One covers the process of getting started, helping you to survey and design your plot, put up fencing and build paths. It looks at the soil too, which is so essential to a productive plot, and I explain how to build soil fertility through composting and growing green manures. Part Two focuses on growing fruit, vegetables and flowers, establishing trees for fuel and even developing a forest garden. In Part Three I turn to the broad subject of livestock, and discuss the keeping of poultry, pigs, sheep and goats, as well as fish and bees.

  Throughout this book I have provided measurements in both metric and imperial units and referred to seasons in generic terms rather than by specific months of the year, in order to make the text as versatile as possible, relevant to readers in any location.

  The rules and regulations regarding the keeping of livestock vary from country to country, so I have touched upon this area only briefly within the main chapters, but you will find more details in the Appendix. If you do decide to keep animals such as pigs, sheep and goats, and I hope you do, please check with the relevant local authorities regarding the regulations that need to be followed.

  PART ONE

  DESIGN & GROUNDWORK

  Chapter ONE

  Planning your plot

  Farming on a small plot is intensive, but in a good way. On even less than an acre you can keep poultry, a couple of pigs, some bees and fish. If you have enough grass, you can raise some lambs or keep goats. And there will still be room for fruit and vegetable plots, sheds and polytunnels.

  Our walled garden is just two-thirds of an acre, but there is plenty of space to squeeze in a small orchard.

  Many people are surprised when they stand on our one-acre plot and see its extent: when asked, they estimate it to be much larger. They realize that an acre is a lot of space and that even a slightly smaller plot will keep them busy! In this chapter, I’ll take you through the first steps in setting up your plot: of planning and design, erecting fences and building paths, and putting up polytunnels (which are essential for productivity in a temperate climate). I’ll also tackle the topic of pest control.

  The good thing about having a small plot is tha
t it ensures that you make use of all the available space, through methods such as growing under cover, using raised beds and growing vertically. However, success is dependent on a good-quality soil that is rich in organic matter and nutrients, to supply plants with all their needs, and this must be backed up by an effective composting system. With good soil fertility, it is possible to really boost crop yields. For example, as much as 50kg (110lb) of carrots can be harvested from as little as 3m2 (32 sq ft) if the plants are closely planted in a raised bed filled with fertile soil – a yield many times that which is possible in a commercial situation. But care has to be taken that the system doesn’t become too intensive, as it is very easy to plant too many crops, and that is simply not sustainable. You have to keep to a reasonable level of production, or you will have to start relying on fertilizers and other chemicals because the balance has been lost.

  Similarly, when working with a small plot of land, do not be tempted to keep too many animals. You need to make sure you have a good land-use rotation to maintain the quality of the soil and minimize the burden of parasites and disease organisms in your animals, and if you have too many animals this is not feasible. Wherever possible, your animals should be part of your crop rotation to make best use of the free supply of nutrients in their dung (see Chapter 3).

  When planning your plot, it is critical to be realistic about just how much time you have to spend. If you are not living on-site and are unable to visit it on a daily basis, then opt for something that won’t take up much of your time. The vegetable area, for example, could occupy half the plot, but you would have to put in many hours a week just to keep control of it – and what will you do with all the produce? Sell it or give it away? Realistically, you could manage with much less for your own veg supply, and have an orchard for fruit or a small paddock for pigs or lamb.

  Running a business

  An acre can be enough to set up a viable small commercial enterprise.

  For example, you could run a niche business such as an organic vegetable box scheme, supplying seasonal vegetables, fruit, eggs and honey to as many as 60 to 70 customers. You could have a small orchard, soft fruit and a herb garden, and make seasonal preserves and fruit juices. A good-sized area under polytunnels would allow you to grow chillies and other exotics.

  With a polytunnel you could focus on niche crops such as chillies.

  Planning on paper

  Whether you have acquired a greenfield plot or taken over an existing smallholding, it is almost certain that you will need to make changes. It’s always best to construct a plan on paper before tackling any work on the site, so you can make decisions on the position of fences, paths and structures such as polytunnels. First, make a scale drawing of your plot showing the boundaries and any existing buildings, and key features such as hedgerows, trees, fences, and water and electric points. Add a compass ‘rose’ and delineate the shady areas, and indicate the direction of prevailing winds.

  Make accurate measurements of the plot before you start. You can do this on the ground, but nowadays it’s quicker and easier from the comfort of your desk by using a GPS area measurement app on your smartphone that makes use of Google Earth maps. I checked the accuracy of one of these apps and found it to be accurate to within 0.5m (1'8"), which is perfectly adequate for a plan. There are apps that will measure the height of objects – another useful feature if you have trees, buildings or a tall hedge nearby. It is useful to know the height of objects such as trees, as you can then work out the shelter effect. A windbreak is effective for up to six times its height, so a 3m (10') hedge on the prevailing wind side of your plot will give 18m (about 60') of shelter. Drones, too, can be useful: you can use one to take an aerial photo of the site, as shown in the photos below.

  A drone fitted with a camera can provide a new perspective of your plot.

  An overhead of our one-acre plot, with polytunnel, vegetable beds and livestock pens.

  Planning checklist

  The following are key points to consider when making your plan.

  Decide on an access point if there is not an obvious one already (check the planning regulations); the size of gates and whether you need a hard-standing or turning area.

  Decide on the type of boundary you need (fence or hedge), and whether you will need windbreaks (rows of willow, poplar or Jerusalem artichokes, for example).

  A slope will restrict what you can do, and you’ll need to plan carefully to avoid soil erosion, with terraces across the slope rather than exposed areas on the slope. You may want to dig swales (ditches) along the contour lines to slow down and capture water run-off. Before you do anything, go out during heavy rain and observe how the water runs off your land.

  Think about the size and position of the more permanent structures such as sheds and polytunnels, which will need good access, will create shade and will generate some water run-off.

  Consider security carefully, especially if your site is visible from a road or footpath.

  Where will be your main routes through the plot? These will be formed between the various points that you need to access, and the type of route may depend on the frequency of use (see also ‘Zoning’, below). How many paths will you need and how wide do they have to be?

  Where will your water come from? Are you going to have pipes and taps or will you collect water from roofs? Do you need a dipping pond or a water tank?

  Where will you build your vegetable beds? They will need an open, sunny location, which should be flat if possible. The best orientation for the beds is north–south, so all plants get the same amount of sunlight and do not shade each other. If the orientation is east–west, then there will be some shading.

  Mark out the area that you will use for permanent crops, including fruit trees and soft fruits. Do you want an orchard, or will you plant fruit and nut trees across the plot? Do you have space for a fruit cage?

  Where will you build your compost bins? You will need space to wheel in the green waste and turn the compost. Don’t forget that you will be barrowing the finished compost on to the vegetable beds, so it needs to be close to them and not down a slope!

  Do you want to grow willow or poplar for fuel or to include a forest garden?

  Make a list of all the animals you want to keep, and work out the area of land you need for them. Remember that you may need trailer access for transporting pigs, bringing in chicken houses or moving fencing materials, etc. Read the advice in Part Three before making these decisions.

  Once you have a rough plan, check that you have made best use of all the space. Can you add an edible hedgerow, or plant cordon or espalier fruit trees along the boundaries? Have you collected all the water that may be available to you? Do you have enough space for animals and options for rotating their pasture?

  Before you get carried away and start planting trees and buying livestock, it is absolutely critical to get the site layout right, because paths, fences and buildings are expensive to put in and can’t be moved easily. The first step is to plan your boundary fencing if there is none in place or if what is there is unsuitable; this is particularly important if you want to keep livestock. You’ll need to decide what type of paths you want and their routes, and the location and type of any large enclosures and any structures such as polytunnels and sheds, before going on to site smaller things such as your planting areas and compost heaps. Check the local planning rules regarding sheds and polytunnels.

  Zoning

  When designing your plot, it is useful to think of ‘zones’: a permaculture principle based on the number of visits an area will receive on a daily basis. If you will be visiting an area very frequently, it makes sense to locate it near to your access point (if you are living on-site then your access point in this sense will be your house). Broadly speaking, you can imagine different zones as concentric circles or sectors, spreading out from the access point. However, zones should not be defined rigidly, as there may be other constraints on your site, such as slope and aspect, that
determine where something will be sited, and you can also have a zone appearing more than once on your plan.

  Zone 1 describes those areas that need the most frequent visits, in order to water, tend and harvest, so these are generally positioned closest to the access point. They might include the polytunnel, cold frames, shed, aquaculture unit, and vegetable beds and wormeries.

  Zone 2 will be areas that receive less frequent daily attention, such as the chicken and pig pens, where the animals still need checking twice a day but are less intensively managed than in zone 1.

  Zone 3 is the areas that will not require daily visits, such as the orchard, fruit cage, perennial beds, composting bins and crops that need less attention, such as squash; plus your bee hives. You might include your sheep and goats in this zone, although they will require two checks a day.

  Zone 4 might include your forest garden, willow for fuel plot, and carp ponds.

  Zone 5 will be your wild areas that are rarely visited, so are often located near the furthest boundaries.

  The edge effect

  It is well known that in nature the most biodiverse and productive areas are those in the overlap zone between two ecosystems: for example, in the intertidal zone along coasts, where the open ocean meets land; in mangrove forests along tropical coastlines; where forest meets grassland; and in woodland clearings. This is because in these areas there is a greater range of conditions, allowing more species of plants to survive, which in turn supports a greater diversity of animals. If you can incorporate more ‘edges’ in your plot, you will create lots of different microclimates and a richer ecosystem. For example, I like to have small log piles, where beneficial predators such as beetles and spiders can hide, and I let the grass grow long in places as this attracts different animals. If you are planning a forest garden (see Chapter 6), include a small glade or clearing that aligns north to south. It will have its own microclimate, being sheltered from extremes by the trees all around it, with (in the northern hemisphere) the northern end getting plenty of sunlight from the south. Another way of creating more edge is simply to have wavy edges rather than straight lines between areas. A curved path has more edge than a straight path, while a keyhole or a spiral bed are more varied in microclimates than a rectangular bed.